Off the coast of Hong Kong’s city centre—about 45 minutes by ferry from Central—lies an island called Cheung Chau. The island is tiny—roughly 2.5 square kilometres across. Waves lap rhythmically against the shore, and the 30,000-odd residents inhabit sparsely situated, low-rise shophouses. It’s no wonder that the island is a popular weekend getaway for city-dwellers. But something more specific had drawn me in: To-day Bookstore, an independent bookseller I’d stumbled upon online.

While only a small number of islanders remain in the fishing trade—which boomed in the late fourteenth century under the Ming Dynasty—the waterfront continues to be lined with fishing vessels alongside seafood restaurants. The Friday afternoon I arrived, I squeezed past throngs of tourists at the ferry pier. After successfully resisting the urge to get a giant fishball skewer and the island’s famed mango mochi from the snack stores I passed, I made it to my destination.

With an exterior painted a cheerful green and yellow, it’s apparent that To-day Bookstore has something for everyone. At the entrance is a small grocery section, featuring soy sauce, vinegar, toilet rolls, and other made-in-Hong Kong essentials. One wall features illustrations and items handmade by local artists. Next to it are rows of neatly labelled drawers of zines from the surrounding region.

• Tags: Gabrielle See, Hong Kong, Issue 44