I think of you every time I drive past Sukhumvit Soi 38, where the old street food market stood. Lately, I’ve been going on many long drives, trying to forget all the times I’d done that with you in the passenger seat. We fell into whatever it was you and I had during lockdown, which meant that every place we got the chance to venture out to has remained frustratingly clear in my memory. Soi 38 is one of those places.

I picked you up from your hotel, weaved through the evening traffic and came to Soi 38 so that you could try that quintessential dessert every foreigner craves: mango sticky rice. Long regarded as one of the staples of Thai cuisine, the dish is freshness on a plate: ripe yellow sweet mangoes with sticky rice, mixed with thick coconut cream.

• Tags: Issue 27, Pim Wangtechawat, Thailand