Khmer new wave

Stefanie Sellon

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The White Building, 2012. Photograph: Marianne Waller

My first visit to Phnom Penh happened at the beginning of this millennium, via the dirt road connecting the small town of Siem Reap with the Cambodian capital. At first I felt Phnom Penh to be anything but sleepy, with its busy boulevards named after Tito, Mao and Sihanouk creating long perspectives and flanked with monuments, pagodas, street corners in Art Deco and 1960s concrete louvres hidden by enormous billboards.

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