Coffee in Jeju

Marc de Faoite

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Illustration: Oslo Davis

The wind-whipped ocean is in turmoil. Frenzied waves, tossed and thwarted in their assault by buffeting crosswinds, race in to dash themselves in a sibilance of white foam, not unlike the hiss of steam the dark rocks must have made during their formation while still smouldering magma. Spent, the waves retreat with a sigh, then swell and crash again.

My cheeks tingle with the cold. I pull my hat down low over my forehead, pull my scarf up high around my neck.

Further along the island’s coast and uphill inland, the giant arms of wind turbines flail. There is something joyous in the symmetry of their ranked movement, like a dance carefully choreographed and directed by the wind.

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