Few would dispute that Malaysia’s national dish is nasi lemak, or if they did it would probably be more to play devil’s advocate than out of authentic conviction. But leaving rice aside (something many Malaysians only reluctantly do), let us turn our attention to another Malaysian staple that is almost as ubiquitous and popular: the humble roti canai (which, for the uninitiated, is pronounced with a “ch” sound).

Available at stalls and restaurants throughout the country, often 24/7 in cities and towns, roti canai can be eaten for breakfast or dinner, or anything in between. This layered and oily flatbread, cousin to the chapatti and second cousin to the naan, can accompany many dishes. But more often roti canai is the main feature, commonly supplemented with insipid lukewarm dal, or a splash of watery gravy that is all too often little more than diluted curry powder. But depending on the setting you might fare better, or with luck even score some freshly made coconut chutney.

There are multiple varieties of roti canai, limited only by the imagination of cooks and the adventurousness of diners, but the more popular among them variously include the addition of onion, egg, sardines, margarine, ghee, sugar, banana, kaya, condensed milk or even milo. Spreads like Nutella or peanut butter are not unknown, and some audacious vendors even go as far as adding cheese, though usually of the characterless processed variety.

• Tags: Issue 18, Malaysia, Marc de Faoite