Hanaya, Tawaramachi. The 70-year history of this yaki-soba fried noodle shop ended in late June after word went out on Twitter that the husband and wife were giving up. Maintenance costs caught up with them. The old man stood in the window all day over a hotplate, wordlessly stirring noodles with cabbage. You added sauce from the bottle, as you liked. The wife was very energetic and appeared to know everything about everyone. I queued for an hour but didn’t get a final bite. Caption and photo by Mark Robinson
Lately I’m going for the ‘morning service’ at Betty, the spacious, decades-old café I call the horse racing place, with two TV screens and on weekends the crowd of older men with their betting guides. They watch their races and sometimes shout, ignoring the government’s infection warnings and advice to stay home. Though I’m hardly one to talk, as I am there too.
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