Pich Sopheap’s studio, in Prek Anh Chanh village, thirty kilometres northeast of Phnom Penh, is as far as you can go outside the Cambodian capital without leaving it. The entrance to the artist’s two-hectare property, on National Road 6A, is a large wooden and steel gate. Once through, I steer my Honda down a gravel path, riding past rows of bamboo and tropical trees. At the eastern edge of the land, a concrete studio comes into view. I see Sopheap through the glass window of his kitchen having breakfast. I’m much too early.